Sunday 8 March 2015

Hiking Torres del Paine - 5 nights 6 days

Hiking in Patagonia´s Torres Del Paine



Although this hike is relatively low in altitude it should not be taken lightly in terms of warm clothing. Here is our Macpac gear list for each of us




2 x merino socks
1 x Montrail hiking shoes
1 x merino long johns
1 x thermal tights
1 x cross-terrain shorts
1 x reflex overpants
1 x merino singlet
1 x merino tshirt zip
1 x merino longsleeve zip
Primaloft puffer jacket
Traverse jacket
1 x yowie
1 x thermal gloves
1 x merino beanie
1 x windstop gloves


1 x Express 400 sleeping bag
1 x silk liner


4 x Sealine drybags
1 x headtorch
1 x ResQlink PLB


1 x titanium spoon
1 x anodised aluminium pots
1 x whisperlite stove
1 x white spirits
1 x flint


1 x 40 liter Amp pack






Other items included
cups, plates, camera, pocket knife, tent, air mattresses, sunglasses, sunscreen, steripen (not needed), insect repellent (not needed), toilet paper (needed)




We have both previously raced in Patagonia and both felt a compelling desire to return.  Be it the wild untouched nature or the challenge of the harsh environment, we both love it for everything it offers.  This is a trip of a lifetime.  A chance to revisit, explore and have new experiences in this amazing part of the world.




After an early breakfast at the hostel in Puerto Natales we took the 7.50 am bus to Torres del Paine. People of all shapes and sizes from all around the world piled into the many awaiting buses and we travelled about 2 hours to the park entrance. After paying our entrance fee of 18,000 peso, began walking around 10.30am. We were relieved to leave the crowds behind as most people hike the ´W´whereas we were hiking the entire circuit called the ´O´.








As only it can in Patagonia, the winds howled and we reluctantly tucked our primaloft jackets away to keep them warm and dry for the evening.  However, it was not long until we were walking happily in our shorts and tshirts in sunshine and less extreme wind.  We caught glimpses of the snow capped mountains as we followed the powerful Rio Paine up the valley.  We overtook a local girl from Puerto Natales who asked us how we could be in shorts and it was then we realised the weather had packed in and we were starting to cool down.  Our overpants and jackets came out just before the rain hit.  By the time we reached Camp Seron we were freezing cold so decided to pitch our tent and spend the night instead of pushing over the next pass another 6 hours.  Thanks to a big bowl of hot soup and lying in our toasty sleeping bags, we warmed up and killed some time before creeping out into the cold to cook our dinner.  It was great chatting and meeting others.




After a very windy night with many moments of fear that we would blow away, we woke to a beautiful calm morning.  The red morning sky was stunning as were the freshly dusted snowy peaks that were the backdrop for the camp.  It was like icing sugar.  We were not the only ones who walked this trail... we saw fresh Puma footprints in the muddy track but despite our best efforts, never got to spot one the entire hike.  Day two took us through grasslands, beach forests and shrubby hillsides.  We passed through the Dickson campsite where we enjoyed our lunch in the sun.  We passed massive granite cliffs and enthusiastically took photos of a beautiful glacier, little did we know what awaited us on the other side of the next pass. 




Heavy rain all night at our camp at Los Perros almost meant we had to stay another night.  We had to wait until 10am to get the all clear to go over the  John Gardner Pass, as they were concerned about the river levels on the other side.  Luckily we got the all clear and easily rockhopped the swift river.  We were extremely lucky to have such a stunning day for our crossing.  The sun shone and there was almost no wind.  Glacier Grey was everything we expected, and more.  We were both blown away by it´s size and beauty.  It is almost impossible to describe the colours, the depth, the shapes that nature can create.  Even our photos couldn´t capture the magnitude of the glacier.  It was and still is the highlight of our time in the park.  The whole day we enjoyed sun and warmth and spent most of it in our macpac singlets and cross-terrain shorts.  As we approached our next campsite Grey, we were reminded we were doing one of the worlds most popular walks and had joined the 'W' circuit.  For the first time we were surrounded by people milling around the cooking areas and small shop, and the many tents pitched in this large but stunning campground. We were a bit shell shocked but joined the queues for our first hot shower and cooked our dinner amongst the commotion.  We enjoyed a short walk down to Lago Grey in the evening to get one final glimpse of the glacier and the many floating icebergs floating in the bays. 



We were reminded how lucky we were to have experience the Pass and Glacier in such clear weather when the wind and rain reappeared with vengeance that night and we pressed the snooze button several times on our alarm.  Dressed for battle, we hit the trail pleased we had our backs to the howling and biting gale force  winds and rain.  We passed numerous groups of day trippers battling the headwind, not all dressed for the conditions.  We wondered several times throughout the day how the lady in the tight jean shorts and stockings would be getting on, or the large man in the flapping plastic poncho.  More than once during the day we smiled from behind our warm merino and traverse jackets and said 'there's no such thing as bad weather, just bad gear!!!"



Camp Italiano couldn't have come soon enough. Deja vu from Day 1, we put some more layers on and cooked up a hot soup before heading up Valle del Frances to see the spectacular hanging Glacier and surrounding granite peaks.  We enjoyed the time without our backpacks as this was an out and back.  Skipping down the rocky trail we could feel our muscles had been working over the past 4 days but enjoyed what good fitness allows.  We met our first lot of Kiwis here and decided we would start collection of stories about people sporting Macpac gear in South America.  After finally warming up in the tent, we decided we couldn't brave the brutal cold outside and enjoyed a cold dinner of cheese, salami and crackers from the comfort of our Express 400 sleeping bags.  Talking with others the following morning, we were not the only ones!



Luck was on our side again for our hike up to the Base de Las Torres.  Another very mild day with plenty of sun allowed us unspoilt view of the massive towering Torres of which the park is named.  In case the weather was to pack in the following morning, we climbed to the lookout to capture their beauty as close as we could.  Condors soared over us as we enjoyed the beauty of the massive Torres towering above us.  We enjoyed our last evening in the park, cooking our dinner and sipping hot chocolate with biscuits.  We had plenty of food left as we had planned to take 8 days but only needed 6.


Clear skies greeted us in the morning as we slipped straight out of our tent and hiked up to the lookout once again, to capture the morning sun striking the Torres and creating a mind-blowing sight. For the second time in this trip we were lost for words and gasps of all sounds came out of our mouths. It was well worth the early start in freezing temperature.  We are more that pleased we made the effort.



Walking out was a little sad, but we were really pleased the weather turned it on for us when it really mattered and we had seen and done all of what we had set out to do.




Torres del Paine is certainly worth putting on your bucket list.  It ticks all the boxes for us and rates pretty highly on the list of things we've done so far.


Buses and hostels are plentiful in Puerta Natales and it is very easy to organise your trip, whether you are travelling in a group or alone.















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