Wednesday 8 April 2015

Cycling the Lakes Districts of Chile and Argentina

After diverting from Puerto Montt we found ourselves in the beautiful town of Ensenada.  It has a large population of Germans and the wealth shows.  Wow we were in a different world, green pastures, huge flash houses, lots of cabanas. Had we not had a big lunch a few kms earlier we would have stopped at one of the many restaurants selling Kuchen (german cakes) 
We found ourselves at this amazing campsite, with wifi, right on the lakeside with Volcano Orsono in the background. It was really cool to be lying in our tent and talkig to our families here.

whoop whoop, more fresh apples on the roadside

oh and berries too!


Our next destinaton was Entre Lagos 94 kms from Ensenada. We met two lovely french cyclists on the road and swapped stories. We gave them our map of where we had been and where they were going. It felt good to share our secret camping spots and knowledge of the terrain etc.
After speaking to the French we were once again undecided whether to continue on in Chile or go over Paso Cardenal A Samore into the Argentinian Lakes District.  By the time we had shopped and mucked about in Entre Lagos for a couple of hours the decision was made over an apple empanada to go to Argentina. FOMO is a hard thing to deal with when there are so many routes to choose from.
As evening fell we decided to head out of Entre Lagos a few kilometres, We asked around for somewhere to camp and sucessfully negotiated (in spanish) a very good price for a cabin.  Perfect timing as Debbie was feeling under the weather with a bad cough. Again, we were warm and indoors and it poured with rain almost all night... the next day and following night.  Needless to say we stayed another night and enjoyed a bath, fire and our first TV

The next day we headed out in light rain to tackle the pass into Argentina. Up the road a few kms we met two more French cyclists who had been on the road for a year and were heading to Buenos Aires to catch a plane home to see their family. They must have been in their 60s - great to see. 

As we approached the pass we were blown away by the devastation and more volcanic ash damaging the environmnent around us. 

Down the other side of the pass we met a cyclist from Venezuela who had a buckled wheel. Poor guy - we cut his spokes for him with our leatherman and suggested he hitch to the nearest town. He had no tools and no spare spokes !


We turned off the main road off the pass and started the route of the seven lakes. Wow it was beautiful seeing our first Argentinian lake. We were pleased we had chosen to come this way after all. 

The seven lakes road was a treat. Good camping, not so much traffic and great views. Camping by the lakeside - bliss. We met a couple at this lakeside camp who were impressed with our intentions to ride to San Martin De Los Andes 105 kms away. It was so cool on the last hill before the town we saw them stopped on the roadside in their car waving and grinning at us. They jumped for joy and shook our hand. Debbie was convinvced they were going to take us home for dinner and a bed but unfortunately they didn´t. We restocked in town and then headed out in the hope of finding a nice campsite, Unfortunately, we did not and were forced to camp behind some shrubs by the roadside in the rain. Our worst night for a long time - lots of traffic noise, dogs barking and rain. However, we woke to no rain and had an awesome bday breaky for Debbie.

HAPPY BIRTHDAY DEBBIE
Candles in hot porridge with chocolate sprinkles

On the road again.... the day improved as we headed through to Junin de Los Andes. The road was quiet and the rain eased. We saw two dead skunks and a scorpion on the road and hoped we nevr saw them alive. We had an amazing lunch with chocolate milk and fresh bread and even managed to dry the tent out. Happy as. The road to Rio Alumine was so peaceful after Route 40 of the day before. But we were back on gravel. 

All over the place we see these memorials / gravestones on the roadside. Many have hundreds of plastic bottles left by them as gifts, others have photos of who has died. Most have a Mary ...
An amazing quiet sweeping gravel road.... but some bumpy, corrogated sections

Not soon after joining river Alumine we found an awesome campsite next to the river. Bliss - time for another hot wash and a clothes wash. 

With the warmth comes mozzies!  The green citronella coils we bought from home do work a treat though.

Yum, eggs for an entree

Happy birthday Dinner Debbie
Beautiful Rio Alumine Valley



We decided the kids in Argentina must love going off to school 

HAPPY EASTER
Our attempt at egg decorating!
We had seen Martha Stewart do it on the TV from our last Cabana!!!!



Fresh Trout in Villa Peheunia
Our last night in Argentina..... don´t cry for me!

Argentinian Border Post







After a week or so in Argentina we decided to cross back over into Chile in search of the famous Araucania trees. From villa pehuenia we crossed the Icalma pass then dropped into melipeuco. We then cycled on a 4x4 track for the most incredible day of riding. What an amazing day we have had.



No comments:

Post a Comment